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Bulgaria Travel Guide
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Total area: 110,993.6 sq km Arbanassi (architectural museum reserve)
In the village of Arbanassi everything is authentic: the unique architecture of the Arbanassi houses, the old-time narrow streets, the drinking fountains of yore, the moving mural paintings, icons and original iconostases in its remarkable churches and monasteries. Arbanassi was founded in the late 15th century by Christians, coming from the southwest Bulgarian lands. In mid-16th century it flourished, rapidly growing and developing and attracting settlers from the nearby villages and hamlets. The prospering inhabitants of Arbanassi engaged in lively trading in all parts of the Ottoman Empire and in the countries of Central Europe. The crafts of gold jewelry, copper work, of farriers developed in the settlement as did the cultivation of the silk worm. The flowering of Arbanassi continued until the end of the 18th century, when it was ravaged and ruined by the Kurdzhali brigand inroads and its population migrated. Now Arbanassi elegantly combines the preserved old-time atmosphere with modern servicing.
The Church of the Nativity is the oldest church in Arbanassi, built in several stages. Initially, what is today the nave (the section for men) had been an independent church, and its mural paintings had been made before 1597. The narthex was decorated with mural paintings in 1638, while the murals in the chapel of John the Baptist were painted in 1632. The iconostasis is one of the oldest woodcarvings in the Bulgarian lands. Most of the images in the gallery were painted in 1649. Particularly impressive is “The Wheel of Life” painting featuring a zodiac. The mural paintings in the nave were completed in 1681. Bansko (as a site of cultural tourism)
Veliki Preslav The ancient Preslav came into being as a military camp with a fortified palace and a garrison during the first half of the 9th century in the time of Kan Omourtag (814-831). It was promoted to a capital city by Simeon I (893-927), who moved the capital here from Pliska and within a short time the town became established as an administrative, religious and cultural centre of the medieval Bulgarian state, renowned for its remarkable monumental construction, by the achievements of the applied arts, stone sculpture, painted pottery, by its literary school. Sexagon by Yoan Exarch describes the exceptional brilliance and magnificence of the royal capital. As a capital of the Bulgarian Kingdom from 893 until 969, the town has been directly associated with the unprecedented upsurge and flowering of culture and literature during the period, known as a Golden Age of Bulgarian Culture. Bulgarian Knyaz and, later on, Tsar Simeon the Great, one of the most enlightened European rulers, has been credited with the construction and enrichment of the capital city of Preslav. An exceptional statesman, warrior and man of letters (a graduate of the Magnaour School in Constantinople), Simeon I succeeded in turning Preslav into the second most outstanding city in Southeast Europe, inferior only to the capital of Byzantium. Working there were the most talented Bulgarian men of letters of the age – Yoan Exarch, Chernorizets [Monk] Hrabur, Constantin of Preslav, Presbyter Kozma, Toudor Doksov. The continuators of the cause of Cyril and Methodius, in just a few decades they transformed the Old Bulgarian language from a church service language into one of the richest literary languages of Europe of that time. |
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The excavations of the medieval city of Preslav began in 1897. The city, extending on an area of 5 sq km in a locality, surrounded by hills, had been protected by a strong fortification system, consisting of two concentric fortress walls, encircling the outer and the inner town. The outer town was fortified by a strong stonewall in the form of an irregular quadrangle. The fortress walls climbed up the elevations of the hills around and along the bank of the river. Built out of large limestone pieces, held together by white concrete, they were 3.5 m thick. The inner city was almost in the middle of the outer city. Its fortress wall is L-shaped with round towers put up in its corners and quadrangular towers on the walls. The palace compound, consisting of two monumental buildings, was built on top the high plateau of the inner city. The big palace (the Throne Hall) is 35x22.5 m, built of large stone blocks. The uncovered fragments of architectural details give an idea of the elaborate decoration of the ceremonious royal hall, in the form of a three-nave basilica with two rows of free-standing marble columns. A secret exit crossed the western wall of the ground floor, passing under the pavement east of it. The small palace (the residential palace), about 16 m long, was also built of stone ashlars. The Round (Golden) Church (10th century) is characterized by an original artistic design and exquisite plastic decorations. It consists of a rotund, a narthex and an atrium. The rotund was covered by a semispherical gilt-plated dome, whereby its shape was additionally emphasized by 12 lean columns, surrounding it in a circle. Rising in the centre of the rotund was a marble pulpit. There used to be a wall in the centre of the atrium. The pieces of marble columns, capitals with stylized acanthus, parts of cornices, fine columns encrusted with multicoloured slabs, ceramic slabs, etc. come to show that the church had had an exclusively rich architectural decoration. The walls of the church had been faced to a certain height by marble, followed by wall mosaics of glass, stone, ceramic and guilt cubes. Remains of structures of different assignments were also uncovered during the excavations of the old Preslav: dwellings, workshops, ateliers, baths, as well as a water pipe system. A rich archaeological museum has been established. Of particular interest among its exhibits is the ceramic icon of St Theodore Stratylatus, made up of 20 painted slabs (9th-10th century) and the unique collection of lead seals of Bulgarian and Byzantine rulers and high-ranking officials. Veliko Turnovo It is among the most frequented Bulgarian cities. A brilliant capital of the Bulgarian Kingdom during the 12th-14th centuries, Turnovo has been the living symbol of Bulgarian statehood over the ages. The picturesque city is 241 km from Sofia, 85 km from Lovech, 46 km from Gabrovo, 42 km from Tryavna, 105 km from Rouse and 7 km from Gorna Oryahovitsa. Part of the territory of Veliko Turnovo has been declared a museum reserve with three zones, also including the territory of the village of Arbanassi. Turnovo became the capital of the restored Bulgarian state directly after the uprising of Assen and Peter (1185-1187), which put an end to the Byzantine rule. During the following two centuries (1186-1393), when the Bulgarian state had reached the peak of its development, Turnovo developed as a major political, economic, cultural and commercial center, known throughout Europe. In its area and population, the Bulgarian capital of that time was among the largest cities in the European Southeast. During that period, magnificent palaces, monasteries, churches, fortifications, bridges and big buildings were put up. The medieval Turnovgrad [Turnovo town] extended over the Tsarevts, Trapezitsa, Momina Krepost, and Sveta Gora hills and Assenova Mahala neighbourhood by the Yantra River. The two main medieval fortresses rose on Tsarevets and Trapezitsa hills. The strong fortifications guaranteed the security of “the inner town”, spreading on the two hills. Living by the side of the Yantra in the Assenova neighbourhood, where the so-called New Town emerged, were craftsmen and local merchants, while the residential district of the foreign merchants (Frank Hissar) was southeast of the Baldwin Tower. The residential districts, making up the so-called “inner town”, were also protected by fortifications. Outside the fortifications were only the dwellings of the poorest people living right by the side of the river. No doubt, of highest interest for visitors, is the time when the city had been the capital of the Bulgarian Kingdom. Tsarevets Architectural and Museum Reserve The fortress on the Trapezitsa hill was the second in importance to that on Tsarevets. In the 12th-14th century it was called “The Glorious City of Trapezitsa”. Fortified by strong fortress walls, following the curve of rocks overhanging the Yantra, it was also densely built with houses. Some 17 churches were also erected. The Monastery St Ivan Rilski [John of Rila] was also within that fortress. Transferred in it in 1194-1195 were the relics of the wonder-maker of Rila a kept there for nearly three decades. It was precisely from the capital of the Assens that the cult for the Bulgarian national saint spread beyond the frontiers of the kingdom, acquiring significance throughout the Eastern Orthodox world. Monasteries and churches were built in the Assenova neighbourhood (now the Assenov residential district). Some of them can be seen to this day. Preserved in these Bulgarian medieval monuments of historical and architectural value are mural paintings, reflecting the extremely high artistic, religious and philosophical values of the age. The Church of St Demetrius is directly connected with Bulgaria’s history. When it was inaugurated in 1185, the Bulgarian boyars, the brothers Peter and Assen, rose in an uprising against Byzantine rule. The uprising was successful and Turnovgrad was declared a capital. The rulers of the Bulgarian state reborn - Assen, Petur and Kaloyan – were crowned in that church. It served as a Christian church until 1779 long after Turnovo had fallen under Turkish rule. The church has been completely restored. The Church of the Forty Holy Martyrs is probably the best-known medieval monument in the country. It was erected on the order of Tsar Ivan Assen II in commemoration of the major victory of the Bulgarians over the Byzantine troops at Klokotnitsa in 1230. During the 13th-14th century it had been one of the most beautiful and rich churches of the kingdom. It was considerably damaged during the Ottoman domination, when it was turned into a mosque; its mural paintings were pasted by lime, and the icons and the iconostasis were burned. What has been preserved are extremely valuable columns, a token of continuity of the heroic traditions in the development of the Bulgarian state: Assen’s column with an inscription dedicated to the Bulgarians’ historic victory in 1230, Omourtag’s column with an inscription reflecting the building activities and life philosophy of Kan Omourtag, and the column from the Rodosto fortress. In 1972 a Christian tomb and a solid gold signet ring with an inscription “Kaloyan’s Ring” was found in the northeastern part of the church. According to experts, this is the tomb of Tsar Kaloyan. The church has now been completely restored.
Every walk in Veliko Turnovo hides surprising meetings, carrying the specific feeling of history and of space at one and the same time. Standing out among the numerous cultural and historical monuments in the city there are also real masterpieces of construction, the work of the major Revival Period builder master-builder Nikola Fichev (Ousta Kolyu Ficheto): the churches of St St Constantine and Helena (1872-1874), of St St Cyril and Methodius (1861) . The Konak (now National Revival and Constituent Assembly Museum), built in 1872 by Kolyu Ficheto, had an eventful and intriguing historical fate. Vassil Levski, the Apostle of Bulgarian freedom, was interrogated here in 1873; in the wake of the bloody suppression of the April 1876 Uprising, the Turkish court held its sessions in this building, in the trial of the revolutionaries Bacho Kiro, Tsanko Dyustabanov, Georgi Izmirliev, Ivan Semerdzhiev, Ekim Tsankov and some others; in 1877 the citizens of Turnovo welcomed the Russian liberators in front of the Konak; in 1879 the Constituent Assembly held its sessions here (drafting and adopting the First Bulgarian Constitution) as did the First Grand National Assembly, while in 1885 the decision was taken to recognize the Unification of the Principality of Bulgaria and Eastern Roumelia. This museum, along with the archaeological, church and ethnographic compounds, the New History Museum and the reserves Tsarevets and Arbanassi, are parts of the history museum in Veliko Turnovo.
The Prison Museum (1862), where Vassil Levski, Filip Totyu, Stefan Karadzha, and Bacho Kiro, the fighters for national liberation, were held prisoners. The monument to the Assen dynasty (a Bulgarian royal dynasty reigning from 1185 until 1277), particularly impressive for visitors of Veliko Turnovo is the grand Sound and Light Programme – a night-time tourist attraction, shown on Tsarevets Hill, which can be watched from the town. |
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